(d) Heat gear with heating torch (not a
8utting torch) to 400°F (205°C). The
gear will expand, making it easier to
pull. Remove gear key.
scratches, nicks, cracks, and obvious
micrometers. Refer to tabulated data in
replaced if main bearing or crankpin
journals are worn out-of-round more
than 0.001 inch (0.05 mm).
crankshaft thrust flange at No. 7 main
bearing; refer to tabulated data in
Chapter 1. If surfaces are scored or
(4) Camshaft Bushings.
(a) Use inside micrometers or dial bore
gauge to measure camshaft bushing
inside diameter. Mark bushings for
replacement if worn larger than worn
limit specified in Chapter 1.
(b) Check for chipped, scored, or scratched
(c) If bushings show signs of turning, in
block bore, check block bore sizes.
Refer to tabulated data in Chapter 1.
(5) Cylinder Block.
(a) Use dye penetrant method for locating
cracks, porosity, leaks and other faults.
Clean suspected defective area with
(b) Apply dye penetrant allowing time for it
to dissolve or enter in the defect. Allow
approximately 15 minutes for dye to act.
Do not "force" dry. Remove all excess
penetrant and apply developer so defect
will stand out. Cracks usually show up
as a solid or dotted line. Porosity
usually shows up as dots in local area.
(c) Check for signs of corrosion. Corrosion
most frequently occurs on portions of
block nearest cylinder liners and is
evidenced by pitting.
c. Repair. To repair the cylinder block, proceed as
specified in the following paragraphs:
(1) Tappet Bores.
(a) Measure tappet bores with a small bore
(b) If worn beyond limit specified in Chapter
1 or out-of-round more than 0.0015 inch
(0.038 mm), replace cylinder block.
(2) Idler Gear Shaft.
(a) Replace idler gear shaft if worn smaller
than 1.9965 inch (50.711 mm).
(b) Remove outer screw (16, figure 13-50)
from left side of idler shaft boss; then
remove screw (15) which secures shaft
in cylinder block.
(c) Using a suitable puller, pull idler shaft
(14) from block.
(d) Place new idler shaft in block bore and